Thinking about grabbing a used Alesis Strike/Strike Pro as my first e-kit. For folks who’ve bought one secondhand, what’s your go-to inspection checklist so I don’t miss hidden issues?
- Module checks: Is there a built-in pad/CC diagnostic screen I can pull up to see hi-hat values and trigger activity? Any minimum firmware you’d consider “must have,” or deal-breaker behaviors tied to older software?
- Hi-hat health: How can I tell in a quick test if weirdness is just calibration vs a failing sensor/controller? For example, what should a smooth open→closed sweep look/sound like, and how do you test foot splash reliability on the spot?
- Triggers and crosstalk: Fast way to spot hot-spotting or dead zones on the snare/toms? Any “safe” trigger settings to temporarily try (on a new user kit) that reveal problems without wrecking the seller’s setup?
- Cymbals: Easiest way to verify edge/bow/bell all trigger correctly on the ride, and that chokes work consistently on crashes?
- Hardware fatigue: Common failure points to look for (cracked shells around lugs, loose XLR-style snake connectors, worn rims, broken strain reliefs, wobbly rack clamps)? Anything that looks minor but is actually expensive to fix?
- Parts/compatibility: Are replacement mesh heads just standard acoustic sizes? If the hi-hat is beyond saving, are third-party controllers a realistic drop-in with the module?
- Using as a MIDI brain: Any gotchas mapping the Strike to popular drum VSTs (especially hi-hat CC range/splashes)? Better to use USB or 5‑pin for tighter latency?
- Noise/outputs: Are the main outs quiet enough for live use, or should I listen for a specific hiss/hum that indicates a problem?
- Price sanity: Rough ballpark for a clean used Strike vs Strike Pro in today’s market? What flaws are acceptable at a discount, and which ones mean “walk away”?
- Moving it: Best way to pack/break down so I don’t damage piezos or wiring on the ride home?
If you’ve got a 5‑minute “do this test, you’ll know” routine, I’d love to steal it.